How To Put Batteries In Xbox One Controller

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Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537  (Read 229965 times)

The new XB1 controller is a CG (Mutual Ground) setup for all of the Buttons. The Triggers are also in a setup where they go Lo when pressed, but they are a flake more than complex than the 10k Potentiometer style that its 360 predecessor sported, more detail on those later.

1537 BUTTON/Power Lath Height

1537 BUTTON/Power Board BOTTOM

1537 MCU BOARD TOP

1537 MCU Board Bottom

If any push is wished to exist duplicated, information technology's merely a matter of one side of the new button going to any Basis spot, then the other side going to the button line that you desire to duplicate. The connectors J5 and J6 are the best place to solder up wires for all of the buttons, with the exceptions of B, LSC and RSC. The B button has a Via, too as a solder pad at D14 direct beneath information technology that can be used. Then the LSC and RSC connections tin can be made right on the solder joints for them.

If a Trigger is wished to exist duplicated, information technology will go done the same way, ane side of the new button will go to Ground, the other side to the LT or RT line, merely install a 10ohm Resistor on i side or the other of the new Tact switch and so it'due south not a straight brusque to Basis when the Tact is pressed. In that location are no actually great places to solder up wires for the LT and RT lines, the but options being a Via, the RC filter after the Hall Sensor (R42/C38 for LT, R39/C36 for RT) or an MCU lead.

For whatever unfamiliar with my naming scheme..

A = A Button
B = B Button
X = X Button
Y = Y Button
DU = D-pad Up
DD = D-pad Down
DL = D-pad Left
DR = D-pad Right
LB = Left Bumper
RB = Correct Bumper
LT = Left Trigger
RT = Right Trigger
LSC = Left Stick Click, Left Stick's button
RSC = Correct Stick Click, Right Stick'southward button
VW = View (Back)
GU = Guide
MN = Carte du jour (Starting time)
SY = Sync
LSX = Left Stick X-Axis (left/correct)
LSY = Left Stick Y-Axis (upwardly/down)
RSX = Correct Stick 10-Centrality (left/right)
RSY = Right Stick Y-Axis (upwards/down)

FUNCTION - TRACE COLOR

DR - Red w/Black
DU - Xanthous due west/Black
DD - Green west/Black
DL - Blueish westward/Black
SY - Dark Purple
LB - Pink
RB - Majestic
GU - White w/Green
A - Light-green
B - Carmine
X - Blue
Y - Yellow
VW - Light Bluish
MN - Medium Blue
LSC - Pink w/White
RSC - Purple west/White
LT - Light Bluish w/Light Ruby-red
RT - Light Cerise due west/Low-cal Blue

J1/J5 Connector Pinout

one - RUMBLE MOTOR+
ii - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - LED IR x two
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
xi - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - Ground
14 - GROUND

J2/J6 Connector Pinout NOTE: "Wired" from here on ways continued with the microUSB cable.

ane - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (nether GU, does not drive LED directly)
three - GROUND
iv - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will piece of work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide push. Employ Cathode side of D27 on Ability/Button board or controller will not ability on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cablevision LED
eight - A
9 - Ten
10 - Y
xi - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND

TEST POINTS NOTE: If information technology doesn't say power source, don't utilise it to power something.

TP1 - D- USB
TP2 - D+ USB
TP3 - three.3v (Wired),
TP4 - 0v (Wired),
TP5 - 5v USB
TP6 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP7 - three.5v, RUMBLE MOTOR+ ( switched power source )
TP8 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP9 - 3.3v ( switched ability source on battery, constant when Wired )
TP10 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP11 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
TP12 - 0v (Wired),
TP13 - 0v (Wired),
TP14 - PNC DETECTION
TP15 - 0v (Wired),
TP16 - GUIDE (2.6v not pressed, 0.5v pressed)
TP17 - three.3v (Wired),
TP18 - USB 5v DETECT (2.95v)
TP19 - 0v (Wired),
TP20 - 0v (Wired),
TP21 - GROUND
TP22 - GROUND
TP23 - 0v (Wired)
TP24 - GROUND
TP25 - iii.3v (Wired),
TP26 - Basis
TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+
TP31 - 0v (Wired),
TP32 - 0v (Wired),
TP33 - 0v (Wired),
TP34 - 0v (Wired),
TP35 - 0v (Wired),

My Schematic* of the Push/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf

My Schematic** of the MCU Board - https://world wide web.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20BOTTOM%20BOARD.pdf

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.
** Some of the MCU pinouts are guesses for at present, I'd demand to put the Logic Analyzer on them to run across exactly what they are doing.

STICKS - The Sticks are the same 10k POT fashion as previous controllers, but are new and smaller than the 360 versions. They accept a i.8v AN+ that comes from a Regulator (U8) and it's also the vRef for U1 on the MCU lath.

TRIGGERS - The Triggers use Linear Hall Sensors at present, U10 (RT) and U11 (LT). They take three pins, 1 - VDD (ability), 2 - Output, 3 - VSS (ground). The VDD for them comes from U9, which is turned on/off by U1 at 125Hz, 8ms menses, On ~1.4ms, Off ~6.6ms (~eighteen% Duty Bike). This is done mainly to save power, but it also makes them a little harder to tinker with, merely not impossible. (more later)

Power - The Power/Button lath has 3 carve up Buck/Boost circuits for power direction.

U1 is for when the USB cablevision is attached, information technology takes the 5v and knocks it down to ~3v for the other two circuits.
U2 is for a 3.5v source that powers the LED, IR LEDs and the Rumble motors. It'due south TP7 on the MCU board.
U3 is for the 3.3v source that powers pretty much everything on the MCU board. It's TP9 on the MCU board.

(more than on the PnC pack/cablevision when I accept them to tear downwards)

Clean PCB Scans.

BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP CLEAN

BUTTON/Power Lath Lesser CLEAN

MCU BOARD TOP CLEAN

MCU BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN

PLAY & Accuse PACK

The PnC battery pack this time effectually is a 3v Lipo, 1400mAH, four.2Wh. The bodily cell is 3.7v and ii.33Wh, so where does the 4.2Wh come from..?

..from the other ii.33Wh jail cell in in that location that is in parallel with the outset 1.

The PnC pack uses the same contacts equally the AA batteries for sending ability to the controller. The 4 pin connector is for 5v and I2C advice between the charging circuit and the MCU in the controller.

The charging circuit this time around is built into the PnC pack, and the IC responsible for the battery charging is a Texas Instruments BQ24250.

PnC Accuse BOARD Acme

PNC Charge BOARD Bottom

PnC Accuse Board Top Clean

PnC CHARGE Lath BOTTOM CLEAN

My Schematic of the 1556 PnC Battery Pack ROUGH Draft - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201556%20PnC%20Pack%20DRAFT.pdf

« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 04:53:45 PM by RDC »

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Screwing up is 1 of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing y'all're not learning is how to screw upward.

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Very dainty work equally always thank you RDC

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 Tracey: I cant believe Rodent of all people made my damn solar day
3D0: snacks cartoons and naps  lol sounds similar rodents typcial day
Rodent consoles mods

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very saucy, I'm going to have to pick one of these up at some stage now.
Out of marvel what do you use to take such level scans?

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Welcome guys.

@ GhoSt - Mainly I use a level PCB, because that's really the only way to become a level browse of ane.

Being flat on the scan bed isn't every bit of import equally beingness parallel to it, as long every bit you're non too far abroad from it.

If you have components that are in the way that make the PCB sit at likewise much of an bending, a niggling chip of an angle is ordinarily alright, but if it'due south too much then yous have a couple of options..

1- Remove some components so they let the PCB to sit more than level. In the example of this Button/Power lath the Bumper switches are removed. Then the height differences between the remaining components are level enough.

2- Apply some brace or counter weights on the back side and then the PCB will 'appear' level to the scan bed. This was washed with some Quarters on the CG2 scans here. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/alphabetize.php/topic,34543.0.html  They tin can be seen on the forepart scan at the Headset connector being used to hold that border of the PCB upward so it'south level to the scan bed. And so on the back side scan, you can come across them thru the center mounting pigsty, where they are being used to balance the PCB on the Rumble, PnC and Headset connectors so the board stays level and doesn't sit all lop sided similar it would if the counter weight wasn't dorsum there.

If y'all meant the hardware being used, information technology's a dinosaur Scanjet 3570c, and they are scanned at 1200dpi.

« Concluding Edit: Dec 04, 2013, ten:45:28 PM by RDC »

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Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, and so long as the simply thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

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RDC you are the best

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b push button trace is non on the id list?

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PLAY & CHARGE CABLE

The PnC cable has a Bi-Color (Amber/White) LED in it for showing the charging/charged land of the PnC Pack, forth with a few other components and a 4-layer PCB.

Pin iv of the microUSB connector is used for irresolute the LED, 0v = Amber, 3.3v = White.

PnC CABLE

HEADSET

The Headset connector this go around uses a 12 pin connector, that volition more probable do enough more than before all is said and done as information technology's overkill. The connector has the Audio Codec chip, a Texas Instruments TLV320AIC3204 and a PICLF26K22 inside it forth with other back up components for doing signal processing.

HEADSET AUDIO BOARD Superlative

HEADSET AUDIO Board BOTTOM

The Microphone and Speaker connections, wire colors, at least for now, are..

GND = Footing, Copper
MIC = Microphone, White
HPR = Headphone Right, Black, Speaker -
HPL = Headphone Left, Bluish, Speaker +

« Concluding Edit: June 15, 2021, 02:09:25 AM by RDC »

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Screwing upwardly is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only matter you're not learning is how to screw up.

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RDC - Great scans and traces as always. I know there are tons of guys doing some form of a two.5mm mod to the Mic Puck to utilise 3rd political party headsets. I actually do i myself past installing a small 2.5mm port where the wire stop sits. Ive seen guys say to drop out the blackness wire (HPR) to substantially let the Speaker and Mic Share a basis since the aftermarket headsets use a 3 pole plug and not a 4 to allow true stereo from the puck to the headset.

question, can anything be changed to change the voltage and increment speaker book? Tin a resistor be taken off and bypassed?

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No, not like that at that place isn't.

The TLV chip is using the HPR and HPL in a BTL configuration, like bridging the Left and Correct outputs of a motorcar amp so you lot go more power, just also mono audio. Since the XB1 headset but has 1 speaker, this is why that was most likely washed. Using but one side or the other is a Single Ended setup, and naturally has less power, so less volume, merely it's besides incorrect to do that as the TLV has non been reconfigured to output that way.

Everything on that TLV chip is washed Digitally, from how it gets it's indicate to how it's setup internally to use that signal likewise as the max gain of said signal. Information technology's not merely a uncomplicated amplifier, information technology's a pretty complex DAC, AMP and mess of things. The simply part that'south Analog where changing some passive component's value might do anything is at it'southward outputs, but even then you're non going to become any kind of noticeable difference for the work involved there.

Until some 3rd party visitor gets up to speed, or some crazy with a Logic Analyzer and aught better to do for a couple weeks figures it all out and codes up some chip to reconfigure the TLV (not likely), the only existent options are to utilise the stock headset, deal with the lower volume or run a 4th wire so the headset speaker gets driven properly like the stock ane is, and at that point only using the stock one is the ameliorate option.

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Thanks once again human. As well Glad to see they are using lithium batteries instead of Nickel-Cadmium.

Note: Like RDC says a lot of the stuff is overkill on the XB1 system hardware. United states modders tin exploit the actress capabilities of the hardware.

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Neat work every bit always RDC.

RDC I was wondering if you lot knew at what voltage, every bit the batteries are depleted from use, does the controller shut off?

Cheers

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The way the XB1 controller's power setup works isn't quite like the 360 controller, this one has been done a bit better. The power comes from either 2x AA or the PnC pack that uses 2 x 3.7v Lipo batteries in parallel, similar to the 360 bargain, but here these are used to power a couple of DC-DC converters that power everything inside the controller, so you always have three.3v and 3.5v to the controller. So no affair what voltage the batteries are at, inside the DC-DC useable range as well equally how M$ has the battery voltage detection setup it'due south always three.3v. There is also a third DC-DC converter, only it's merely to knock downwardly the USB 5v to 3v for the other 2 DC-DC to use when the PnC cable is continued, merely mentioning it for the sake of completeness.

With the PnC pack, you lot'll never run into anything lower than 3v from information technology, every bit it has a 3v internal Reg, merely the battery protection excursion that's built into it kills information technology before that to protect the cells from under voltage issues. All of that battery monitoring is done digitally with that thing, so it's ever 3v until it croaks. I'd have to poke around in there for a bit to figure that one out exactly.

With the AA batteries, they piece of work downward to around 2v or so before the controller doesn't intendance for them any more, but considering of the DC-DC converters the controller gets 3.3v the entire time, so a fresh fix of AA that give around 3.3v or ones run down until they're around 2v or so, the controller always gets 3.3v to it.

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RDC. So in low-cal of the trigger fix thread being deleted presently after I presented my reasonings for why your trigger replacement circuit is likely causing damage to the sensors leading to their premature failure, I idea I would offer you the opportunity to explain it here.  If this forum'southward policy is ignorance is elation at the expense of its forum members then so be it. Just as somebody who I believe is an engineer you know data is information and I hope you will have the confidence to hear me out and let y'all decide for yourself if my findings are accurate.

So in light of the thread being restored, I won't repeat myself here other than to say I believe the recommended load resistor should be every bit high as possible in terms of resistance while still allowing the MCU to register a trigger pull.  Through the use of a trim-pot, I was able to empirically notice that this ideal resistance is roughly 330 ohms.  With a 330 ohm load resistor, there volition be no functional deviation from the user'south perspective, merely it will put much less stress on the sensor which I believe is a very wise thing to do given the fact that nobody here knows the actual part# and thus it's output current capability.

On a completely different note.  I would be interested in your take on how to all-time disable wireless functionality.  Do you know if the Y1 oscillator is required by the Wifi/Security chip on the castellated board to function properly or is it simply used for upconverting the baseband to the ii.4Ghz carrier frequency?

« Final Edit: January 26, 2014, 04:08:01 AM by GrammatonKlerik »

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So am I right in saying that If I wanted to duplicate the B button I would take information technology to the small round blackness pin, remove the  carbon to brass and then solder to that point. For the ground point will I take it to tp22 like   rafaliyo86 has done. Or volition i flake some of the carbon of the actual button and solder to both point like on the you lot tube video Xbox One Scuf Controler DIY . I hope some one can help

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@ simonmx23 - It's solder mask to copper, not carbon to brass.

I don't know how you will do it, but either way you're going to get the same result.

@ GrammatonKlerik - I sent you a PM awhile back with a test to try on the Hall sensors to see if you lot're results there were the aforementioned/different and never heard dorsum.

To recap, I've removed i, powered it from a iii.3v source (non pulsed like it is in the controller) and driven the output of that matter to ground thru a 100ohm (just the RC filter) and at most it draws 2mA on the output, which is likewise what it draws with your 330ohm on there afterward the RC filter. I left information technology with the 100ohm all night and information technology however works. And then 330ohm, 10ohm or directly to ground, there's actually no deviation and I practice not run into my method causing the issue that and so many have supposedly had with it. Pull one off the board and test it to confirm/modify/deny the examination results there.

Information technology's a wireless controller, I don't actually encounter the indicate in disabling information technology's wireless capability, but I'll have a look at it when I get a chance.

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@simon I take duplicated buttons past scraping the pads, and it works perfectly if done right. But since nosotros have RDC'due south scans every bit a resource I say employ them. I wound up just using the points right at the connectors. If a client of mine doesn't want an LED swapped, I tin can leave the front board screwed into the controller thus saving fourth dimension. Heres a couple examples of my early ones, now i can do about all buttons on simply the longer rear board. Promise it helps.

« Final Edit: Jan 13, 2015, 04:07:00 AM by BattleBeaverCustoms »

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@RDC So in my beginning endeavour to mod and Xbox 1 controller, I call back that i may take fabricated a error while de-soldering my power LED. I either messed upward the solder signal or??? I accept no idea. Is at that place a style to fix the solder betoken, or solder a small-scale wire to another signal for power? Everything functions on the controller EXCEPT for the power LED. It'southward non a big deal to me just a small badgerer that i would similar to fix if it is possible. If needed I tin include some pictures of the board if needed.

Thanks for the aid!

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A picture of the damage is the only way I'll be able to see what was done.

The Vias to the left and right of the pads for the LED are the first place y'all tin use. After that it's onto the bottom side of the lath.

« Last Edit: Baronial 04, 2014, 02:00:40 PM by RDC »

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And then here information technology is.... hopefully I didn't goof information technology upwards too much...
Hopefully others will larn from my mistakes.

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Information technology looks like the pad on the left is all the same there, just prep the Via on the right of the LED and solder a small wire from it to the LED.

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Screwing up is 1 of the all-time learning tools, and then long as the only thing you lot're not learning is how to screw upward.

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Howdy Sir.

Thanks very much for this PCB Scans.
I used this to made a LED Controller Modernistic.

I have just one question. I wanted to use TP9 point for 3.3V and TP24 for Ground. The trouble is, that the Pad on TP9 falled of by mistake, so i deceit use this anymore. Instead of this, i used TP25, but at the end i saw that the LEDs shines, just when i put in the Batteries. I dont desire to utilize that method...I want them to light up when i printing the Guide Button and plow the Controller on, just like the Guide Push Led (as well this pads are off) :/+)+&&8

Then my question is, is there any other Pad i could solder a LED to?

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Welcome.

TP25 is not a power source. There is 3.3v on it, only information technology's non for sourcing anything.

Use TP7, it's a switched iii.5v ability source.

Use less heat and/or time to solder your joints. Yous shouldn't be removing those pads that easily. If y'all've torn them off, then after soldering them upwardly put a bit of hot mucilage on the wire, not on tiptop of the solder joint, merely back form it a little bit to concord the wire in place.

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thank you for the fast response :-)

Then TP7 volition piece of work like it should, right? Perfect, im gonna try information technology later. Tin can you propose some SMD Leds, which would fit perfectly for this? Im going to put iii of them in the mittlepiece (got a transparent 1) of the controller. I used some of my cleaved LED Stripes, and i detect the are too large for things lile that.

Thanks in advance :-)

greetz

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TP7 volition work fine, as long equally y'all don't nuke it equally well.

I have no idea what level of soldering experience you have, aside from lifting some TP spot, then the smaller LEDs you might not get along with too well without some practice on them. The smaller SMT components go the more difficult they are to solder, so get you nigh 10 spares to exercise on, and some masking tape, as you'll not discover a amend third hand for belongings that tiny stuff in place while you solder on it with an iron.

Any 0603 or the flake larger 0805 will work and be more than brilliant enough for what y'all're wanting to do. You lot'll see more than wire than LED, and so use some 30awg Kynar wire if y'all tin can. If those are as well modest, and then the 3mm thru hole blazon LEDs might be what you're needing every bit they can be made to fit in most places also.

« Concluding Edit: November 03, 2014, 04:07:14 PM by RDC »

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hey hello guys,

How many 0603 smd leds can i use on ( TP7 ) and i use (TP21 as Basis).

I promise someone can help me.

Cheers.

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Depends on the LEDs you program to use, in what wiring configuration and what current they need to work. I personally wouldn't pull more than 100mA or so from the spot. That'south ten LEDs at 10mA each in parallel. If you need more light than that there's a switch over on the wall y'all should use, or yous demand to change the LEDs yous're wanting to apply or exist powering them with something other than a game controller.

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And then I completely messed up and ripped up a button trace by D14, and wanted to know where the best place to connect the trace to, in order to fix it without soldering directly to the access port. Hither's my mess upwards.

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No thought what an access port is.

If you're referring to the actual B button pad, and so information technology looks like it was already scrapped on, and y'all should have simply went with that and been done. If you hateful the Via, then you're out of luck, equally that'south exactly where it will accept to go unless y'all want to solder to the MCU lead.

You'll have to cut off what's left of that dangling trace and either prep it to solder a wire onto the fleck of it that's withal on the board, so jumper downwardly the the Via where it originally went, or from the left of the B button pad to the Via. That trace and Via (red) can be seen in the PCB scans in the first mail.

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Screwing up is i of the best learning tools, so long equally the just thing you're not learning is how to spiral upwards.

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